Obedience Training - Part One

Whether you want a competition winner or a companion pet, give your dog basic obedience lessons.

Obedience Training - Part One


Up to now this section has been devoted mainly to the "No, No” school of dog training, perhaps properly so because the very young puppy is more apt to do what he shouldn't than what he should. Some more positive steps in the bringing up of the dog now should be examined, prefaced by a few words on how to give praise and censure.

An actor knows that when you want intense attention, whisper. When you give an order, insist on the order being obeyed, but don't shout. It isn't loudness that teaches the dog but quiet firmness, the repetition of words and the praise you give for work well done.


Generous praise for sustained effort rather than for the quick accomplishment should be showered upon the very young puppy. Light pats should accompany the words to impress your approval on him. As the dog develops, there should be fainter praise for effort and more for accomplishment. The dog will try the harder to deserve your plaudits. The road to fear and obedience only under duress lies in the whip.

An early positive step in the training of the young dog is accustoming him to the collar and leash. Put a collar around his neck that is tight enough so that it will not slip over his head, yet is not so tight it causes discomfort. Leave it there until he has become used to it, then attach a light leash and let him play with it, at the same time watching to see that he doesn't get it tangled and choke.

When he is accustomed to both collar and leash, he may be started on lead training The lead is your means of control over the dog in all the elementary obedience lessons in training him for the show ring and, in the form of a long check rope, in bird-dog training. But first he must learn to walk at your side without rebelling, plunging or pulling. Some grown dogs never are satisfied merely to accompany the master. They try to pull his arm off, pursuing every whim of scent and fancy. They never have been trained properly and they violate one of the main principles of obedience training
-to walk at heel. The others are to sit, lie down and come to you when called by an appropriate command.


In leash training, place the dog on your left side and start walking. The left side is always used in obedience, whether in formal competition or otherwise. The puppy probably will be very reluctant or will pull ahead. As you start walking, say "Heel!" and if there is resistance, give the leash a light tug but not a yank. Have a rolled-up newspaper in your right hand and when the puppy pulls ahead give him a tap on the nose, accompanied by the use of the word "Heel!" When he moves at your side in an orderly, even manner there is no tension on the leash and no taps and the dog begins to enjoy the experience of walking with you. The older dog should draw a sharp rebuke for occasional disobedience once his lead-training has been completed. The extremely young puppy should not be subjected to the training since oversevere curbs on his natural playfulness may harm his spirit. Remember to continue the use of the word "Heel” to make him thoroughly familiar with it. Don't make any of the lessons too long. Fifteen minutes at a time is long enough, otherwise the dog will tire. Half an hour will do for the older dog. In either case the lessons should be held regularly. If there is complete non-cooperation,mend the lesson until next day.

Another step in obedience training the dog of five or six months of age should be coming when called. This can be done either through the use of a check rope or entirely by vocal orders with no force. In the use of the rope, the command "Come" is given and the cord pulled simultaneously. In the other system, the puppy is left free of restraint, with the word "Come" used enticingly, accompanied by a patting of the floor with the hand and rewarded upon compliance by affectionate petting and praise.

While the check-rope method is effective, it has one drawback. The puppy may get the impression that he is required to come only under compulsion. No rope, no need for response, he thinks. 

If you use the rope, allow the puppy to play about with the rein attached but unhampered. When he is sufficiently wrapped up in his game, say, “Come!” and tug the cord. Then reward him. He probably won't though, at first. Give the cord a few yanks, then pull the cord to you and when he arrives, administer the usual plaudits. Repeat the process four or five times, then stop. You can pick up the lesson later in the day after a rest. 

Also important in the obedience process is response to the order, "Sit!” Place the dog in front of you or at your left side. Take a short grip on the leash with your right hand and say the word, at the same time pressing down on the dog's rump with your left. He will be forced to a sitting position. When he is down, give praise and a tidbit. Then repeat the operation. Always say, "Sit!" and always accompany the order  with the hand pressure. After a while he should sit without being pressed.

There may be a tendency for the dog to lie down at the beginning. Pick him up and set him in the correct sitting position until he knows what is required. A number of short lessons a day are better than one or two excessively long ones. Don't keep the dog sitting too long. Later you can train him to remain seated or lying a considerable period when desired, but that is another step in the training process.

Once he has mastered the meaning of "Sit," start him on the lying down lesson. The word "Down" is used here and should be taught the same as the others. Don't use the word to order him from getting on the sofa. It has a definite place in obedience training and should be used only in the training connection.

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