Dog Grooming
Tuesday, April 14, 2020
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Grooming is best done on a table, so have one handy. It's more important to brush the dog frequently than to bathe him constantly. A stiff brush will clean off loose dirt, stimulate the skin's natural oils and give sheen to the coat. Bristle brushes are preferred to those with wire, particularly on smooth-haired dogs, since the sharp wire points may injure.
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| Dog Grooming |
A considerable amount of hair may become loose as a result of the bathing. Brush or comb it out. You can do the job efficiently with the fingers alone, but be sure your nails aren't of the dagger-point variety. Work from the head down the ridge of the back and along the sides and on down the legs.
Start the grooming from puppyhood to accustom him to remain still. He'll probably enjoy the operation. Brushing won't do the whole job of removing dirt and loose hair from the long-haired dog. You'll need combs, too, a heavy one with about 10 strong teeth to the inch and a finer one with about 20. A fine-toothed comb is best for the smooth-haired dogs.
While the dog is thus being groomed is a good time to examine him for cuts and sores. You can treat minor injuries as you would a small cut on your own skin. Look for signs of abnormal skin conditions. If you find skin disease, you will need a veterinarian.
Examine his nails, too. A dog of sedentary habits is not going to wear his nails down through natural friction and they'll have to be trimmed occasionally. Nails of the house dog, particularly, will need regular attention.
A clipper made especially for the purpose usually is better than scissors. In the use of either, be careful that you don't cut into the blood vessel that comprise the quick at the base of the nails. It won't hurt the dog if you cut just above the quick, but will if you get into it. Regular filing once the nails are clipped will keep them in proper shape.
It's a good idea to look at the dog's teeth, too. They should be cleaned with a hard brush and table salt mixed in water. Many dogs in the pet-dog class develop tooth trouble because of their diets and are particularly susceptible to tartar deposits. If the tartar is heavy, you should take the dog to a veterinarian for a thorough cleaning. He'll do it with less discomfort to the dog than you can yourself. However, you can do the job with a dental tartar scraper.
Gnawing on a good hard bone will help keep tartar down but sometimes brings another evil in broken teeth. A broken tooth should be removed. Many of the dog's tooth ills can be avoided if his diet is right.
While you've got the dog on the table, you should part the hairs to see if he has flees, lice or ticks. Look closely. Some may be hard to see. In searching for vermin, examine such places as the base of the tail, the head, around the ears and along the backbone. There are many flea powders on the market that will kill or stun the parasites without hurting the dog. Flea powders contain rotenone, rotenone derivatives or 5 to 10 per cent DDT. Rotenone rather than DDT powders are recommended for nursing mothers and young puppies. None of the various powders should be allowed to get into fresh cuts or infections.
It is necessary to rub the powder well into the dog's hair. Avoid getting it in the eyes. Start treatment at the head and work downward. Keep the dog on a large sheet of paper so that vermin that drop off won't escape to re-infest but can be burned. Lice also can be treated with powder. Lice may be harder to see because the insect and the nits are so small.